Friday, 8 March 2013

Creating Estella

Young Victoria - Emily Blunt

Young Victoria - Emily Blunt
I looked more at fashion and hairstyles of the time to gain inspiration for my Estella.  I wanted to re-create the more established Stella, more when she's about to attend the ball.  In particular I looked at the film Young Victoria: Played by Emily Blunt.

Sketched idea of Estella 

Hair for Estella

Test on doll


Test on doll

Before thinking about hair i referenced lots of styles and ideas, I suppose I took a little from Young Victoria then made it my own.  I knew from working on the doll that the fancy bun took most of the hair.  I wanted two long curls to drape either side of the neck so I has to add four rows of extensions for thickness and length.  For the front i wanted it young and simple so I made a middle part, i backcombed for volume and curled the underneath either side to create the traditional marcelo waves.  For the bun i simply divided into three sections and rolled separately to create a more formal evening look.  Finally i curled the extensions and wrapped into two thick marcelo waves.

Marcelo Waves & Bun

Extensions added for thickness and length

Marcelo waves & Bun

Three rolled bun & waves
Make-up for Estella

When referencing the Victorian era I learnt that make-up wasn't really used.  It was seen as something that prostitutes wore.  As I was trying to achieve a young, fresh and youthful complexion make-up was needed, so I had to be very careful to make it look as natural as possible.  I simply matched all the skin tone and covered with a base to give a flawless complexion and added a soft pink to the cheeks to give a rosy glow.  Finally i added a peachy natural colour to the lips and applied powder to the whole face to reduce shine.

No make-up

Flawless base make-up

Base with slight pink cheeks

More blush for camera & natural lips

Styling for Estella

I managed to source a dress and fan that had been handed down from the Victorian period.  As I wanted to make the dress more formal and evening style i dressed it up with some lace and a broach.  I added some long diamond earrings for effect.  I used the fan on my test shots but it didn't come across well enough in the final images so I chose not to use it.

Dress before being styled more formal

Lace and broach added to make more formal

Earrings added to give an air of wealth

Fan used for test shots but not on finals
Test shots - Estella















Great Expectations - Estella


In all adaptations of Great expectations Stella is always true to Victorian style, however she appears as a young and old girl in all of them.  I decided to work with Estella when she is coming of age and about to embark on the scene of London.


Like Pip, Estella is an orphan and a victim. Both had surrogate mothers who thought they were doing the right things. Both are used by their surrogate parents — Estella by Miss Havishem and Pip by Magwitch— to extract revenge from society. Both share a somewhat passive approach to life that she alludes to when she says they are both unable to follow their own free path but must do the bidding of another. She is an honest character, not evil, and is what she was trained to be. She cannot love Pip or Miss Havisham because she was not taught love, and she says so quite honestly. There is no manipulation, only frankness. She also shows a sort of loyalty to Pip when she tells him she will toy with all men, but him. There is an acknowledgement that she knows Pip loves her, she cannot love him, and therefore she will not be with a man who will realize she has nothing to give him. Yet underneath this rigid unemotional surface is the passion and emotional fury of her parents, Molly and Magwitch. The one time she responds to Pip and lets him kiss her is when he displays rare aggression and forcefulness in beating the Pale Young Gentleman. There is, deep within her, something that responds to emotional fury. That is the part that is changed and softened by the abuse Drummle hands her in their marriage.





Creating Miss Havisham

I decided i wanted to follow with the description of the original character, written by Charles Dickens.  I decided to work on an older lady, but emphasise her wrinkled areas in order for her to appear worn, tired and old looking.

A sketch of my idea for Miss Havisham


I wanted to gain some practice on making a face look older so I decided to use myself.  To achieve the look i used 3 tones.  One lighter, one slightly darker and one considerably darker to emphasise and shadow the creases in my face.

Trials for ageing

Trials for ageing
My model Suzette is a 45 year old woman, I wanted to make her look like she was mid-fifties, but appear like she'd had a very tiring existence.

Suzette my model in her natural state


Make-up for Miss Havisham

I wanted my model to appear ghostly so i started by paling her face down......... I then began to add tones to the creases of her face to give a more sunken look..........

Paling face and emphasing wrinkles

Paling face and emphasising wrinkles

Paling face and emphasising wrinkles


Hair for Miss Havisham


I wanted to create a look with the hair that looked like it had been done, but then left for many years.......

My model had short bobbed hair, so I knew i would need to use either a hair piece or a wig to give the effect i wanted to achieve.


My models short hair
The wig I decided to use

I wanted to keep the look as natural as possible so i sectioned the hair from ear to ear, i then pinned the wig at the back.  This left all the front to style and tease so it looked like her own hair.

Parting made to hide the wig

Parting made to hide the wig

Wig attached and front blended over

I finally sprayed the wig and her natural hair with white hair spray.  This blended all the tones and kept the hair in theme with a grey old, ghostly woman.

Hair sprayed then manipulated to appear natural

Styling - Miss Havisham

For the styling of Miss Havisham I wanted to keep it in with the traditional theme.  I hired a wedding dress and made a veil from lace.  I also wanted to bring some of Satis house into the shoot so I borrowed a Candelabra and covered it with cobwebs to add to the effect of the shoot.

Wedding dress used for shoot

Veil made from lace

Candelabra used with added cobwebs

Test shots - Miss Havisham




 








Great Expectations - Miss Havisham


There have been many different takes and variations throughout different adaptations of Great Expectations, in creating Miss Havisham.  I wanted to take a look a lots of different sources and put together my own interpretation of the interesting and unique character.



She is one of the most strange and grotesque characters in the story, the "wicked witch" of the fairy tale. In adopting Estella, she seeks to protect the girl from the hurts she herself has suffered. That intention, however, degrades into her training Estella to love no one and exact revenge from all men. Miss Havisham was proud, beautiful, passionate, and headstrong, things Compeyson used against her. Deeply hurt, reeling from the loss of control she felt by the betrayal, and determined to regain both control and self-image, Miss Havisham chooses her lifestyle. She wields her money as her weapon of power and trains her daughter to succeed where she has failed. But it backfires. Estella ends up not only unable to love men, but unable to love Miss Havisham. Miss Havisham's creation is her downfall, and Pip is her mirror. When she sees the depth of Pip's feelings for Estella, Miss Havisham sees herself with Compeyson and remembers what she once was. Her redemption is in seeing her sins and showing her remorse. She does the only thing she can do — takes responsibility for her actions. She asks Pip's forgiveness, helps Herbert Pocket, and leaves a fortune to Herbert's father.


Charles Dickens describes his version in a very particular way,  I think I used some of his ideas with my own interpretation:

Although she has often been portrayed in film versions as very elderly, Dickens's own notes indicate that she is only in her mid-fifties. However, it is also indicated that her long life away from the sunlight has in itself aged her, and she is said to look like a cross between a waxwork and a skeleton, with moving eyes.


Great Expectations


(This is an interpretation and summary taken from an internet source, to outline the Charles Dickens novel: Great Expectations.)

A six-year-old boy named Pip lives on the English marshes with his sister and his sister’s husband, Joe. His sister is mean but his brother-in-law Joe is pretty much the best thing that’s happened to Pip.


One Christmas Eve, Pip meets a scary, escaped convict in a churchyard. Pip steals food from his bossy sister (Mrs. Joe Gargery) so that the convict won’t starve (and also so that the convict won’t rip his guts out). Soon after, Pip gets asked to play at Miss Havisham’s. Miss Havisham is a rich old lady who lives in a castle-mansion that is covered in vines, moss, and overgrown green things. Long ago she was jilted at the altar and since that very day, she’s never taken her wedding dress off, nor has she changed a single thing about her castle. As you might expect, there are lots of bugs and things creeping around.

Pip meets Estella, Miss Havisham’s adopted child. Estella is cold, snobby, and regal, but man is she pretty. She doesn’t really talk to Pip, but Pip soon realizes that he’s been asked to serve as Estella’s playmate.

Pip continues to go to Miss Havisham’s and continues to be snubbed by Estella. She grows on him. He develops a little crush. This crush turns into a big crush, and that big crush turns into full-blown, all-consuming L-O-V-E. We love what we can’t have, and there is no way in h-e-double-hockey sticks that Pip, the orphan, can ever have a chance with Estella, the adopted child of the richest lady in town.

When Pip is old enough (early teens), he begins an apprenticeship at his brother-in-law's smithy, thanks to Ms. Havisham’s financial support. He hates his new job, wanting more than anything to become a gentleman, mostly because he dreams of marrying Estella.

Then, one day, Pip comes into fortune by means of a mysterious and undisclosed benefactor (you’ll never guess who it is!), says goodbye to his family, and says goodbye to Miss Havisham. He leaves for London to become a gentleman. This ends the first part of Pip’s expectations.

London is pretty sweet at first, despite all of the grime. Mr. Jaggers, Pip’s caretaker, is one of the biggest and baddest lawyers in town. Criminals and their families hang out around Jaggers’ office just to be near his greatness. Pip also gets a new BFF named Herbert Pocket – he is Miss Havisham’s cousin’s son. Herbert shows Pip around town and helps him learn how to be a gentleman, which is –in short – really hard.


Pip's life in London is busy, full of dinner parties in castles with moats, encounters with strange housekeepers, trips to the theater, etc. He spends way too much money, so his debts just keep piling up. Occasionally, he takes a break from his London life and goes back home to visit Miss Havisham. He also returns home to attend his sister’s funeral. Back at home, though, Pip is too ashamed of his brother-in-law Joe to want to hang out with him.

Meanwhile, Estella is off touring the world and becoming a lady. She’s even more gorgeous than ever, and she moves to the London area so that she can be closer to eligible bachelors.

On his 21st birthday, Jaggers gives Pip a 500-pound annual allowance (which would be a lot of money back then) and tells Pip that his benefactor will soon reveal himself. Pip decides to use this new money to help Herbert secure a job.

Though he continues to long for Estella, she continues to deny Pip lovin’. Then, one night on his 23rd birthday when it’s dark and stormy outside and Pip is thinking about Estella, a stranger arrives. This stranger is Pip’s benefactor. This stranger is…the CONVICT that Pip helped when he was only six years old! This ends the second part of Pip’s expectations.

The convict’s name is Abel Magwitch (but he goes by Provis in town). The courts had exiled him to New South Wales a long time ago under strict orders never, ever to return to England. Ruh-roh. Pip doesn’t feel so good about the whole benefactor thing anymore, and now he’s harboring a convict. Double ruh-roh.

After much hemming and hawing, Pip decides that he has to get Magwitch out of the country. They devise a plan to sneak onto a ship bound for Germany. Pip feels really uneasy all the time and his stomach is butterfly-city. He has the sneaky suspicion that he’s being followed or watched.

Just as they get ready to make their great escape, Estella goes and marries Pip’s nemesis and Pip is almost thrown into a limekiln by a hometown bully who claims to know about Magwitch. As you might have guessed, Pip and Magwitch's great escape isn't successful. They've been ratted out by Magwitch’s nemesis, who is coincidentally, Miss Havisham’s ex-lover. Magwitch is thrown in jail, where he dies soon after being sentenced to the death penalty. Right before he dies, though, Pip tells Magwitch that Estella is his daughter. And that he's in love with Estella.



Pip gets really sick, and Joe comes to the rescue. For a while, it’s like old times when Pip and Joe would hang out. As soon as Pip recovers, however, Joe leaves him in the middle of the night, having paid off all of Pip’s debts.

A few days later, Pip returns home, intending to ask for Joe’s forgiveness and to propose marriage to his childhood friend, Biddy. Upon arriving home, however, he finds that Joe and Biddy have just married. He begs for their forgiveness at having been such a butthead, and then he moves to Cairo.

Pip works in Cairo at Herbert’s shipping company for eleven years and eventually becomes a partner in the company. He sends money back to Joe and Biddy. Eventually, Pip returns and meets Joe and Biddy’s son, Pip. Pip is totally enamored of baby Pip.

What follows are two different endings:

The original ending sees Pip hanging out in London one day a few years later with baby Pip. He runs into Estella, and he can see that time has changed her and that she has suffered much. He's heard that her husband was abusive, but that when he died, she married a poor doctor. 

In the rewritten ending, Pip visit Miss Havisham's house once more. There, he sees Estella walking the grounds. She is single, beautiful, and regretful of having thrown Pip’s love away. Pip knows that they will be together forevermore. The end.


Prostitution in the Victorian era


There were many prostitutes during the Victorian era.  Most were lower-class women, with the exception of mistresses kept by upper-class men.  According to Victorian standards, respectable women did not consider sexual intercourse pleasurable.  It was their duty to be intimate with this husbands and affairs were seen as disgraceful.  Men on the other hand enjoyed prostitutes as a lot of the time they did not enjoy their wives.  Prostitutes did not necessarily "enjoy" their sexual encounters with men, as Victorians tended to believe.  Prostitution was simply their means of survival.  Lower-class women did not become prostitutes because they wanted to but a lot of the time they were left with no other choice.  There were very few options that allowed a women to earn her own income, but once entered into the profession, they were not allowed to enter back into "respectable" society.


A new type of "slavery" had arisen during the Victorian era: Prostitution.  Respectable men and women would lure young women, usually from a lower-class background, away from their homes and sell them into prostitution.  These women rarely got the chance to go back to their families, not because they weren't free to go, but because they procurators and procuresses never allowed them a moment alone in public.  


Make-up was only really used in the Victorian era by prostitutes.  More respectable women saw wearing make-up as a far too flirtatious product used to lure men.  They would concentrate more on their extravagant hairstyles and hats, leaving the "rouge" and other forms of make-up to the world of prostitution.  

Anne Hathaway "Les Miserables" a Victorian ideal of a prostitute